What’s the Difference Between Corn Chips and Tortilla Chips? Ask Paul

Tortilla chips are inspired by, if not necessarily made from, corn tortillas. How are corn tortillas made? With nixtamalized corn.

Nixtamalization involves cooking dry corn kernels in a strongly alkaline solution, which transforms them chemically in a number of ways. Their structure softens as the molecular cement between their cell walls dissolves, which enables them to be ground into a dough, called masa. They also develop distinctive flavor compounds, notably aminoacetophenone, which is instantly recognizable as the smell of tortilla. Finally, they become more nutritious, as vitamins in the corn are made more digestible.

To create classic “restaurant-style” tortilla chips, the masa is flattened and baked into tortillas, which are then cut into sharp-pointed wedges and fried until brittlely crisp.

However, the majority of bagged tortilla chips sold in markets, you’ll notice, have gently rounded points and a speckled, nubbly surface. Those are the telltale signs that these chips were never tortillas: Instead, they’re made directly from coarse-ground masa dough, shaped into triangles (or occasionally other shapes), and then fried. They can also be coated with flavorings, such as cheese powder. The term “corn chips” is sometimes also used for these chips, but the Frito style of corn chip is not nixtamalized.

Tortilla chips are easily confused with corn chips—they’re both chips made of dried corn—but true corn chips, such as Fritos, are made from cornmeal dough that is not nixtamalized but simply ground from corn. It’s easy to tell by sniffing—they lack the distinctive, slightly floral aminoacetophenone note, and instead have a rich roasted-corn aroma that develops when they are fried. They’re typically not triangular, and they are heavily salted, whereas tortilla chips, in anticipation that they’re likely going to be dipped, usually have less salt.