Stuffed birds are elegant, studded hams look impressive, and beef roasts signify opulence. But no holiday main course is more regal than a crown roast of pork. It is a spectacle consisting of two bone-in pork loin roasts tied together in a circle with the bone tips pointed upward to create a crown shape.
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You can purchase a crown roast from your butcher, but going the extra mile and assembling your own at home has an advantage that goes beyond a sense of accomplishment—you can make a more delicious roast.
Our method involves two basic steps. First, you have to french the bones for the proper look, and when you do this at home, you can reserve the meat trimmings for the base of a tasty pan sauce. And second, you butterfly the roasts (before tying them together) to create a pocket for a seasoning mix of salt, garlic, thyme, oregano, and lemon zest.
Most butchers will tie a crown roast together using a needle and thread, but there’s a simpler way. Just stack the individual roasts and tie them tightly with kitchen twine. Then, stand them up, stick a ball of aluminum foil in the center to give structural support, bend in the ends of each roast, and you’ve got yourself a crown roast.
The seasoned, assembled roast needs to be refrigerated for at least 12 hours to allow the salt to penetrate; this builds in a nice make-ahead to take the pressure off day-of assembly. When you’re ready to cook, roast the meat low and slow until just done, brush it with herb oil to add flavor and encourage browning, and finish it in a ripping-hot oven to get a deeply caramelized exterior.
While the roast rests, you have time to make a pan sauce with those reserved meat scraps. Sear the scraps to render some fat and develop fond (the browned bits in the pan), and add shallot and garlic to cook down. Splash in white wine and chicken broth to deglaze, and reduce until you’re left with a thickened jus. Stir in fresh thyme and some vinegar for brightness, and top it off by stirring in butter for a velvety finish.
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