All About the Matfer Bourgeat Recall

Here’s what we know.

Certain lots (batches) of Matfer Bourgeat’s Black Steel skillets were tested in France, where they are manufactured, by a regional regulatory agency, the Direction Départementale de la Protection des Populations (DDPP) of Isère. The agency found that when a mild acidic solution was heated in pans from these batches, arsenic, chromium, and iron leached out in excess of standards recommended by the European Union. Because all three of these metals are considered harmful to humans at the levels found, the skillets were recalled in France. Matfer has appealed this decision, and it maintains that its skillets comply with the safety and testing standards established by the French General Directorate for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control (DGCCRF) and the EU. Matfer’s statement about the recall and its skillets is available here.

No. 

The United States does not have clear standards that dictate just how much certain toxic metals (such as arsenic and chromium) can be present in cookware or released into food, as the European Union does. While there is a general expectation that cookware should be safe—what the Food and Drug Administration calls “of a purity suitable for the intended use”—the FDA does not provide guidelines on what that purity might be. It also does not require manufacturers to submit proof that their products won’t release toxic metals into your food. A representative at the FDA told us that it “will review pan formulations for suitability upon request,” but otherwise does not do so routinely.

As explained by Melanie Tamayo from SGS Testing, a global lab that regularly conducts chemical release tests for cookware manufacturers, and Fran Groesbeck from the Cookware and Bakeware Alliance, the onus is on the cookware manufacturers themselves to ensure their products are safe. And many—if not most—companies do, employing third-party laboratories to ensure that their products meet basic compositional standards. 

Essentially, it’s an honor system. If a company finds out their product is unsafe, it’s up to them to voluntarily recall it from the American market. So far, Matfer has not done this.

If you bought a carbon-steel skillet from Matfer recently and still have the packaging, you can check the lot number—it should be on the label. 

For 12-inch skillets, lots 1102305, 1103862, 1104661, 1104677, 1104678, 1104679, 1104719, and 1104725 are affected.

For 10-inch skillets, lot 1108748 is affected.

For 8-inch skillets, 1104663 and 1104664 are affected.

For all other affected models and lots, including those not reviewed by America's Test Kitchen, we recommend checking the DDPP's full list.

We recommend you stop using any affected products and contact Matfer Bourgeat USA with any complaints.

Unfortunately, if you no longer have the packaging or received a skillet with no lot number on the packaging, it can be hard to know whether your skillet is from one of the potentially affected batches. Matfer has denied that any specific batches are different from the skillets it sells, and that all of its skillets have passed third-party, independent testing requirements by the DGCCRF and EU.

The World Health Organization considers arsenic to be one of the top 10 Chemicals of Public Health Concern. Long-term exposure can increase your risk of lung, bladder, and skin cancer and is also associated with developmental effects, diabetes, and pulmonary and cardiovascular disease. 

Chromium is linked to a higher risk of various heart and liver ailments. As Joseph Bressler, associate professor of environmental health and engineering at Johns Hopkins University, explained, it’s also a carcinogen (increasing your risk of certain types of cancer) and has been linked to various neurodevelopmental disorders.

A little context is helpful here, though. 

As Bressler explained, cookware is not likely to be your biggest source of exposure to either arsenic or chromium. Food and water pose much greater risks. (Because arsenic is present in the soil, for example, it can easily get into water supplies; it’s also taken up in large amounts by certain common foods, including rice and apple juice.) 

Still, as Bressler made clear, the risks posed by arsenic and chromium in cookware are cumulative. You may not be able to eliminate all contact with them, but as with most toxic substances, it’s best to reduce your exposure—and use safe cookware—whenever possible. 

Not currently.  

We cannot recommend skillets that potentially contain arsenic and may leach elevated levels of chromium when alternatives exist. While it appears the contamination is limited to certain batches of Matfer’s skillets, the findings by the French agency are extremely concerning. 

Matfer has declined to remove products from the affected batches from the American market. As of July 2024, it was still possible to receive skillets from those lots via Amazon. 

We are monitoring Matfer’s appeal of the recall and the steps it is taking to assure regulators and the public that its skillets are safe. If Matfer provides sufficient assurances regarding the safety of its skillets, we will be happy to review its products in the future. 

In the meantime, our top choice for carbon-steel skillets is the Mauviel M'STEEL Black Carbon Steel Round Frying Pan with Iron Handle, 12.6-in. It performs well and the lab tests we conducted revealed no arsenic, and chromium at safe levels according to European Union standards.