Lush and decadent, a chocolate terrine wouldn’t be out of place as the grand finale to a high-end restaurant meal.
But this special dessert, which tastes a lot like a rich, thick pot de crème, is eminently doable in a home kitchen, too, requiring little more than good chocolate, a loaf pan, and time.
Like a meat terrine or pâté, a chocolate terrine is baked and chilled well in advance of serving. Come dessert time, either decorate the entire oblong block or portion it into slices and add a garnish or two—a rosy swirl of raspberry coulis, a spray of mint, or a velvety dusting of cocoa powder—and you’ve got a glamorous treat to impress everyone at the table.
With just a handful of familiar ingredients—chocolate, butter, sugar, eggs, and dairy—each has a significant impact on flavor and texture.
I wanted my terrine to land somewhere between the creamy airiness of a mousse and the rich density of a flourless chocolate cake, with enough depth to satisfy any chocophile.
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Maximize Flavor with Two Kinds of Chocolate
With upwards of 600 hundred volatile flavor compounds, chocolate has remarkable complexity—which is a big part of its appeal.
To capitalize on that range, we use both bittersweet and milk chocolate in our terrine. Dark chocolate has been found to contain a greater concentration of roasty, nutty pyrazines, while milk chocolate contains more creamy lactones and grassy, honey-like esters and aldehydes.
In addition to the fragrant volatiles, the proteins and sugars in cocoa beans take on a wealth of rich flavor via the Maillard reaction when roasted; polyphenols in the beans provide winey, fruity notes as well as essential bitterness.
The primary ingredient here is chocolate—I planned on using a full 16 ounces—so it was crucial to select the right kind(s).
After experimenting with every type of bar from the milkiest milk to the darkest dark, I settled on a 50/50 blend of bittersweet and milk chocolate. Marrying the fruity intensity of the former with the creamy, cocoa-y undertones of the latter created impressive complexity.
With the chocolate settled, the terrine was a breeze to put together. First, I chopped the chocolate and melted it with 10 tablespoons of butter and a bit of salt. (Lots of butter was vital for creating a soft, satiny texture.)
I then whisked in eggs and just 2 tablespoons of sugar so as not to crowd out the chocolate with excessive sweetness. Since the egg proteins would coagulate during baking, I had to use just the right amount. Fewer than four eggs led to collapse; any more and the dessert was unpalatably stiff and eggy.
Bathe Your Terrine
The intense heat of an oven can cook a delicate terrine unevenly, causing its edges to overcook before the center is done. A water bath helps to moderate the heat in two ways.
BAKING: During baking, water acts as a thermal sink, absorbing heat from the oven and then slowly releasing it via conduction into the terrine.
COOLING: We let the terrine cool in the water bath so that the process runs in reverse: Instead of rapidly losing heat to the air, the terrine gently cools as the water bath draws heat out of it, which prevents it from cracking.
The dairy selection was also important.
Dairy fat is solid at room temperature, so the more of it in the recipe, the firmer the terrine became and vice versa.
Whole milk, at roughly 3 percent fat, made the terrine so unstable that it slumped in the center, whereas a heavy cream (about 40 percent dairy fat) terrine held its sharp edges but tasted cloying. I found a happy medium with half-and-half (about 15 percent dairy fat), which made a confection with a neat, boxy shape and an overall lighter—yet still luxurious—feel.
I strained the mixture into a parchment-lined loaf pan for easy unmolding, cooked it in a water bath in a 325-degree oven, and then cooled it in the same bath. After it was fully chilled (it can be held in the fridge for up to three days or frozen), I unmolded the chocolate block and sliced it to reveal the lush, glossy interior.
Gussied up with simple but chic garnishes, the terrine was satiny on the tongue with rich, complex flavor.
Plate Like a Pro
Smart, simple garnishes transform a dark, rectangular slab of terrine into an elegant showstopper.
Raspberry Coulis Swoop: Place spoonful of raspberry coulis (see our recipe on AmericasTestKitchen.com) on upper half of plate. Using tip of back of spoon, drag sauce along curve of plate in comma shape. Place terrine slice alongside, then top with fresh fruit.
Cocoa Stencil: Overturn small bowl on one side of plate. Using fine-mesh strainer, sprinkle cocoa powder around edges of bowl. Carefully remove bowl to reveal design. Partially cover negative space with terrine slice, then decorate with slivers of candied citrus peel.
Creamy Quenelle: Use squeeze bottle to drizzle zig-zags of caramel sauce (store-bought works well) across plate, then center terrine slice on top. Set quenelle of ice cream or stiffly whipped cream (see page 31 for instructions) on one end of terrine with strawberry alongside.
Silky Chocolate Terrine
A sleek, sumptuous chocolate terrine is made ahead of the holiday hustle and then dressed up with easy embellishments.
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