Know Your Pepper

Whatever the variety, all peppercorns are defined by the heat-bearing compound piperine. Freshly ground pepper adds distinctive flavor and heat to many dishes. For cracked pepper, gently crush peppercorns with the bottom of a heavy pan while using a rocking motion. Coarsely ground black pepper is the key ingredient in our Cacio e Pepe pasta.

This rose-hued pepper isn’t a peppercorn at all: It’s actually a berry from a tropical evergreen. In the 1980s, nouvelle cuisine made the pink peppercorn a star. Like true peppercorns, it has a savory heat but its “light, fruity flavor,” as well as its pretty color make it an excellent addition to soft cheeses, salads, and popcorn. It’s often sold as part of a mixed peppercorn medley.

Green peppercorns, which resemble capers, are simply unripe black peppercorns and are usually soft (so put down that pepper mill). They are sold packed in brine or vinegar, so rinse them before using. Use them crushed or whole in light sauces or salads in which their “piney,” “citrus-like,” “juniper” flavors can shine.

White peppercorns are fully ripe black peppercorns; the black outer husk is removed and the berries are dried. They lose much of their heat in this process but have a sharpness and a pronounced citrus flavor (“floral,” “potpourri,” and “licorice,” tasters noted). Many chefs like the way that these peppercorns blend into white sauces, while Asian cooks use them in stir-fries and to flavor hot-and-sour soup.

Until recently, Sichuan peppercorns were banned from the United States; the shrub that bears them was thought to carry a disease that could harm citrus crops. These peppercorns are a staple in Sichuan recipes, such as mapo tofu. They have an intense flavor that “hits you in the nose,” but they are even better known for their numbing effect. Said one taster: “Musky and woodsy, and then my tongue went numb.” Find them in Asian markets and large grocery stores.

Try out the unique tingle of these peppercorns in our Crispy Salt and Pepper Shrimp or in the Sichuan chile oil from the video lesson on infused oils in this class.