Comparing Crumbs
Can any cake become a yule log? Let's compare the crumbs of four different cakes and see how they stack up.
The cake needs to be sturdy enough to support its own weight (and that of a filling) and maintain its shape once it's rolled. Plus, it needs to be moist and flexible enough to roll (and unroll) without cracking. Foam cakes tend to be more flexible than heavy pound cakes, but their lack of fat can make them dry and prone to cracking. We found chiffon cake to be just right for a yule log.
Angel Food Cake
Angel food cake has a very delicate, airy crumb. Made with whipped egg whites and no added fat, it rises high but isn't sturdy enough for a filled cake.
Genoise (Separated Sponge Cake)
A genoise uses whole eggs in the recipe, but the eggs are separated and the whites are whipped to provide leavening for the cake. The whites are supported by a chemical leavener, and the egg yolks add richness to the cake. A genoise contains very little fat, so its crumb is rather dry; classic genoise cakes are usually brushed with a soaking syrup to add moisture and flavor. While a genoise sponge is commonly used in jellyroll-type cakes, we found the chiffon to be much more forgiving in terms of flexibility and ease of rolling.
Chiffon Cake
Chiffon cake has the airy height of angel food cake with the richness of pound cake. A chiffon cake is light and delicate like a sponge, but it’s a lot more forgiving to work with. It contains egg yolks and more oil than most sponges, which adds more richness and moisture, which will keep the cake more malleable when it comes to rolling.
Pound Cake
Very rich, very dense, and very sturdy, pound cake is an unlikely fit for a rolled cake.
