Using Wet or Dry Brines with Chicken Breasts

Salting causes juices inside the meat to come to the surface. The salt dissolves in the exuded liquid, forming a brine that is eventually reabsorbed by the meat. The benefits of salting over brining: It's more convenient (no large container needed) and it does not add moisture to the exterior (meaning crispier skin). A con: It takes longer than brining.

We prefer to use kosher salt for salting because it's easier to distribute the salt evenly. Use 3/4 teaspoon of kosher salt per pound of chicken. We use Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt, which has a larger crystal structure. If you're using Morton Kosher Salt, reduce the amount by 33 percent to 1/2 teaspoon.

For skin-on chicken, using your fingers, carefully separate chicken skin from meat. Peel skin back, leaving it attached at top and bottom of breast and at ribs. Repeat with remaining breasts. Sprinkle measured amount of salt evenly over all chicken, then lay skin back in place.

Let salted chicken rest in refrigerator on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet for at least 6 or up to 24 hours.

Like salting, brining makes chicken more flavorful and moist. Brining not only seasons the meat but also promotes a change in the structure of its muscle proteins. As the salt in the solution is drawn into the meat, the protein structure of the meat changes, creating gaps that increase its ability to hold on to water and stay juicy and tender during cooking. The benefits of brining over salting: It works faster and it makes lean cuts juicier since it adds moisture. The cons: It can inhibit browning on skin or meat exterior and it requires fitting a brining container in the refrigerator.

Our standard recipe for four boneless, skinless chicken breasts or 4 pounds of bone-in chicken parts is 2 quarts of water to 1/4 cup of table salt. The ratio of salt to water is the important factor in brining, not the ratio of brine to chicken. It’s OK to use extra meat as long as there’s enough space in the container to keep all of the meat submerged. Brine for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Want to plan ahead? Great idea!

We were wondering which is better: brine first, then freeze, or freeze first, then brine? We brined, froze for two weeks, defrosted, and then cooked several boneless chicken breasts and compared them with breasts we froze plain for the same two weeks, defrosted, and then brined and cooked. The verdict? There were slight textural differences, but all three were moist and juicy, and we’d happily use any in our cooking. So feel free to plan ahead. (Or not!)