Get to Know Lemons

What is the best source of lemon flavor? It all depends on the context. Lemon juice is acidic and tart, but that brightness is lost when exposed to heat; it's best used uncooked. (In baked items, juice provides tenderness only). Better for baking is the thin, yellow layer of zest, which contains floral lemon oils. But avoid the bitter white pith, just beneath the zest.

We estimate that a standard-size Eureka lemon contains up to 3 tablespoons of juice and 1 tablespoon of zest. Look for large, round lemons that give to gentle pressure when squeezed; we've found that they yield the most juice.

The common lemon that you're likely to find in your supermarket is a variety called Eureka. Its juice has a mouth-puckering white wine vinegar tartness, with a hint of Granny Smith apple.

Meyer lemons were first introduced to the United States from Beijing, China, in the early 20th century by Frank Meyer, a United States Department of Agriculture employee. Typically available from December through May, they are thought to be a natural cross between a standard lemon (Eureka or Lisbon variety) and a mandarin orange. Meyer lemons are smaller and rounder than standard lemons and boast smooth, thin, deep-yellow skin and pale orange pulp. They are also less acidic and sweeter, and their rind is more fragrant when zested.