Instructions

For the turkey: Position turkey breast skin side up on cutting board. Using sharp knife, remove each breast half from bone by cutting through skin on top of breast on either side of center bone. Continue to work knife along bone until each breast half is removed. Reserve breastbone for stock. Combine salt, thyme, lemon zest, and pepper in bowl. Sprinkle breasts all over with salt mixture.
Lay two 24-inch pieces of kitchen twine crosswise in middle of 8½ by 4½-inch loaf pan, about 1 inch apart. Arrange 1 breast half skin side down in pan on top of twine. Position remaining breast half over first, skin side up, with thick end over tapered end. Tuck turkey into edges of pan to fit if necessary. Tie twine tightly to secure. Remove turkey from pan and continue to tie at 1-inch intervals. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours.
For the turkey stock: Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place reserved breastbone on prepared sheet and roast until well browned, about 1 hour. Let sit until cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes.
Place breastbone in large saucepan (if necessary, use kitchen shears to break down bone to fit). Add onion, carrot, celery, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf. Add water to cover by 1 inch and bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 1 hour. (Bone should remain covered with water throughout simmer.)
Discard breastbone. Strain turkey stock through fine-mesh strainer set over large bowl. Using spoon, press on solids to extract liquid; discard solids. Reserve turkey stock to make gravy when ready.
Three hours before serving, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 275 degrees. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add turkey and cook until well-browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer turkey to prepared wire rack. Roast until turkey registers 160 degrees, 2¼ to 2¾ hours. Transfer turkey to carving board and let rest for 15 minutes.
For the gravy: Meanwhile, melt butter in large saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in flour until smooth. Cook, whisking frequently, until peanut butter–colored, about 5 minutes. Slowly whisk in 3 cups turkey stock until no lumps remain. (Remaining stock can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 2 months.) Whisk in wine, 1½ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until slightly thickened and reduced to about 2½ cups, 8 to 10 minutes. Off heat, season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and keep warm.
Slice turkey ½ inch thick, removing twine as you slice. Serve, passing gravy separately.