Steamed Mussels with Spicy Tomato Sauce

Why This Recipe Works

The town of Taranto sits in the crook of Italy's boot, between the heel and sole. Founded as a Spartan colony and nestled between a freshwater lagoon and the gulf of Taranto, its unique geography has endowed it with a long history of excellent mussel and oyster farming. The strong tides of the Mediterranean supply ample food for crustaceans, while the freshwater Mar Picolo regulates both the temperature and salinity of the beds, making for a particularly delicious mussel. The mussels are considered so fine that they need little adornment, other than perhaps a touch of garlic, tomatoes, chiles, and white wine. Traditionally they're steamed in a large pot. But cooking an ample amount can be challenging because the mussels crowd one another and stirring them to facilitate even cooking can be difficult: The mussels closest to the heat source cook faster than the ones on top. We found that oven-steaming in a wide roasting pan prevented overcrowding, and the gentle, enveloping heat promoted even cooking. The flavorful cooking liquor becomes perfect for sopping up with toast or bread.