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Whole-Wheat Buns

By America's Test Kitchen

Published on June 9, 2020

Time

1¼ hours, plus 16 hours resting and 1 hour cooling

Yield

Makes 8 buns

Whole-Wheat Buns

Ingredients

Soaker

1½ cups (8¼ ounces/234 grams) whole-wheat flour 1 cup (8 ounces) whole milk ¼ cup (¾ ounces/21 grams) toasted wheat germ

Sponge

1 cup (5½ ounces/156 grams) bread flour ½ cup (4 ounces/113 grams) water, room temperature¼ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

Dough

10 tablespoons (3½ ounces/99 grams) bread flour 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon instant or rapid-rise yeast 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 teaspoons plus pinch table salt, divided1 large egg 1 tablespoon water

Instructions

  1. For the soaker: Stir all ingredients in large bowl with wooden spoon until shaggy mass forms. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter and knead by hand until smooth, about 3 minutes. Return soaker to bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours.
  2. For the sponge: Stir all ingredients in 4‑cup liquid measuring cup with wooden spoon until well combined. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature until sponge has risen and begins to collapse, about 6 hours (sponge can sit at room temperature for up to 24 hours).
  3. For the dough: Tear soaker into 1‑inch pieces and place in bowl of stand mixer fitted with dough hook. Add sponge, flour, butter, honey, yeast, oil, and 2 teaspoons salt and mix on low speed until cohesive dough starts to form, about 2 minutes, scraping down bowl as needed. Increase speed to medium-​low and knead until dough is smooth and elastic and clears sides of bowl, about 8 minutes.
  4. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter and knead by hand to form smooth, round ball, about 30 seconds. Place dough seam side down in lightly greased large bowl or container, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let rise until doubled in size, 1 to 1½ hours.
  5. Lightly flour 2 parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheets. Press down on dough to deflate. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter; stretch and roll into even 12‑inch log. Cut log into 8 equal pieces (about 4 ounces or 113 grams each) and cover loosely with greased plastic. Working with 1 piece of dough at a time (keep remaining pieces covered), pat into 4‑inch disk. Working around circumference of dough, fold edges of dough toward center until ball forms. Flip dough ball seam side down and, using your cupped hand, drag in small circles until dough feels taut and round and all seams are secured on underside of ball.
  6. Arrange buns seam side down on prepared sheets, spaced evenly apart. Cover loosely with greased plastic and let rise until nearly doubled in size and dough springs back minimally when poked gently with your knuckle, about 1 hour.
  7. Adjust oven racks to upper­-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly beat egg, water, and remaining pinch salt together in bowl. Gently brush buns with egg mixture. Bake until golden brown, 18 to 22 minutes, switching and rotating sheets ­halfway through baking. Transfer buns to wire rack and let cool completely, about 1 hour, before serving. (Cooled buns can be stored in zipper-lock bag at room temperature for up to 2 days. Wrapped in aluminum foil before being placed in bag, buns can be frozen for up to 1 month. To reheat thawed, frozen buns, place them on rimmed baking sheet, still in foil, and bake in 350‑degree oven for 10 minutes.)
Whole-Wheat Buns
Photography by Daniel J. van Ackere. Styling by Kendra Smith.

Whole-Wheat Buns

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By America's Test Kitchen
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Time

1¼ hours, plus 16 hours resting and 1 hour cooling

Yield

Makes 8 buns

Ingredients

Soaker

1½ cups (8¼ ounces/234 grams) whole-wheat flour
1 cup (8 ounces) whole milk
¼ cup (¾ ounces/21 grams) toasted wheat germ

Sponge

1 cup (5½ ounces/156 grams) bread flour
½ cup (4 ounces/113 grams) water, room temperature
¼ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

Dough

10 tablespoons (3½ ounces/99 grams) bread flour
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 teaspoons plus pinch table salt, divided
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water

Ingredients

Soaker

1½ cups (8¼ ounces/234 grams) whole-wheat flour
1 cup (8 ounces) whole milk
¼ cup (¾ ounces/21 grams) toasted wheat germ

Sponge

1 cup (5½ ounces/156 grams) bread flour
½ cup (4 ounces/113 grams) water, room temperature
¼ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

Dough

10 tablespoons (3½ ounces/99 grams) bread flour
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 teaspoons plus pinch table salt, divided
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water

Ingredients

Soaker

1½ cups (8¼ ounces/234 grams) whole-wheat flour
1 cup (8 ounces) whole milk
¼ cup (¾ ounces/21 grams) toasted wheat germ

Sponge

1 cup (5½ ounces/156 grams) bread flour
½ cup (4 ounces/113 grams) water, room temperature
¼ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

Dough

10 tablespoons (3½ ounces/99 grams) bread flour
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 teaspoons plus pinch table salt, divided
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water

Why This Recipe Works

Our tasters unanimously favored a dough that contained 60 percent whole-wheat flour and 40 percent white flour—more whole-wheat flour than in most recipes. But because whole-wheat flour doesn’t form gluten as well as white flour, packing that much whole wheat into our buns compromised their texture. Taking a cue from rustic bakery rolls, we used a sponge—a combination of flour, water, and yeast that allows for earlier fermentation—to help create a more open crumb and better chew. Using high-protein bread flour helped build structure, and we also found that presoaking the whole-wheat flour before making the dough was well worth the extra time; this step helped soften the grain’s bran, dulling the sharp edges and preventing the bran from puncturing and deflating the dough. It also converted some of the grain’s starches into sugars, thereby reducing the bitterness that can be characteristic of whole-wheat bread. Honey gave our buns a hint of earthy sweetness that complemented the nuttiness of the whole wheat, and adding toasted wheat germ to our dough amped up the deliciously wheaty flavor of these subtly sweet buns.

Instructions

  1. For the soaker: Stir all ingredients in large bowl with wooden spoon until shaggy mass forms. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter and knead by hand until smooth, about 3 minutes. Return soaker to bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours.
  2. For the sponge: Stir all ingredients in 4‑cup liquid measuring cup with wooden spoon until well combined. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature until sponge has risen and begins to collapse, about 6 hours (sponge can sit at room temperature for up to 24 hours).
  3. For the dough: Tear soaker into 1‑inch pieces and place in bowl of stand mixer fitted with dough hook. Add sponge, flour, butter, honey, yeast, oil, and 2 teaspoons salt and mix on low speed until cohesive dough starts to form, about 2 minutes, scraping down bowl as needed. Increase speed to medium-​low and knead until dough is smooth and elastic and clears sides of bowl, about 8 minutes.
  4. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter and knead by hand to form smooth, round ball, about 30 seconds. Place dough seam side down in lightly greased large bowl or container, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let rise until doubled in size, 1 to 1½ hours.
  5. Lightly flour 2 parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheets. Press down on dough to deflate. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter; stretch and roll into even 12‑inch log. Cut log into 8 equal pieces (about 4 ounces or 113 grams each) and cover loosely with greased plastic. Working with 1 piece of dough at a time (keep remaining pieces covered), pat into 4‑inch disk. Working around circumference of dough, fold edges of dough toward center until ball forms. Flip dough ball seam side down and, using your cupped hand, drag in small circles until dough feels taut and round and all seams are secured on underside of ball.
  6. Arrange buns seam side down on prepared sheets, spaced evenly apart. Cover loosely with greased plastic and let rise until nearly doubled in size and dough springs back minimally when poked gently with your knuckle, about 1 hour.
  7. Adjust oven racks to upper­-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly beat egg, water, and remaining pinch salt together in bowl. Gently brush buns with egg mixture. Bake until golden brown, 18 to 22 minutes, switching and rotating sheets ­halfway through baking. Transfer buns to wire rack and let cool completely, about 1 hour, before serving. (Cooled buns can be stored in zipper-lock bag at room temperature for up to 2 days. Wrapped in aluminum foil before being placed in bag, buns can be frozen for up to 1 month. To reheat thawed, frozen buns, place them on rimmed baking sheet, still in foil, and bake in 350‑degree oven for 10 minutes.)

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