Name: No-Fail Popovers
Total time: 1 h
Ingredients: 1 1/4 cups (6¾ ounces/191 grams) bread flour; 3/4 teaspoon table salt; 1 1/2 cups 2 percent low-fat milk , heated to 110 to 120 degrees; 3 large eggs; Salted butter

Why This Recipe Works

The ideal popover is crisp and well browned on the outside and hollow on the inside, with inner walls that are lush and custardy. Bread flour gave our batter extra gluten-forming proteins so that it was stretchy enough to accommodate the expanding steam within the popover more effectively than batter made with a lower-protein flour would. Though many recipes call for preheating the popover pan to jump-start the “pop,” we found it equally effective (and a little safer) to warm the batter instead by adding heated milk. Greasing the cups of the popover pan very lightly allowed the batter to “climb” the sides of the cups for bases that were full and round instead of shrunken. Most recipes call for lowering the oven temperature after the popovers reach their maximum height to prevent the outsides from burning, but we found that zeroing in on the ideal baking temperature ensured a perfect bake inside and out, with less fuss.

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Before You Begin

This batter comes together quickly, so start heating your oven before gathering your ingredients and equipment. Our recipe works best in a 6-cup popover pan, but you can substitute a 12-cup muffin tin, distributing the batter evenly among the 12 cups; start checking these smaller popovers after 25 minutes. Whole or skim milk can be used in place of the low-fat milk. We strongly recommend weighing the flour for this recipe. Do not open the oven during the first 30 minutes of baking; if possible, use the oven window and light to monitor the popovers.

Instructions

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly spray cups of popover pan with vegetable oil spray. Using paper towel, wipe out cups, leaving thin film of oil on bottom and sides.

Whisk together flour and salt in 8-cup liquid measuring cup or medium bowl. Add milk and eggs and whisk until mostly smooth (some small lumps are OK). Distribute batter evenly among prepared cups in popover pan. Bake until popovers are lofty and deep golden brown all over, 40 to 45 minutes. Serve hot, passing butter separately. (Leftover popovers can be stored in zipper-lock bag at room temperature for up to 2 days; reheat directly on middle rack of 300-degree oven for 5 minutes.)