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Mocha Choux au Craquelin

By Andrea Geary

Published on February 2, 2021

Time

1¾ hours, plus 3 hours chilling and cooling

Yield

Makes 24

Mocha Choux au Craquelin

Ingredients

Pastry Cream

2 ½ cups whole milk, divided5 teaspoons instant espresso powder ⅔ cup (3⅓ ounces/94 grams) all-purpose flour ½ cup (3½ ounces/99 grams) granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon table salt 6 large egg yolks 4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Craquelin

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened½ cup packed (3½ ounces/99 grams) light brown sugar ⅔ cup (3⅓ ounces/94 grams) all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder Pinch table salt

Choux

2 large eggs plus 1 large white6 tablespoons water 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces2 tablespoons milk 1 ½ teaspoons granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon table salt ½ cup (2½ ounces/71 grams) all-purpose flour
1 cup heavy cream

Before You Begin

You'll need a 2-inch round cutter, a pastry bag, and two pastry tips—one with a ¼-inch round opening and one with a ½-inch round opening—for this recipe. If desired, this recipe can be made over two days: Make the pastry cream and craquelin on day 1 and the puffs on day 2. We strongly recommend measuring the flour by weight. We prefer whole milk in the pastry cream, but you can use low-fat milk; do not use skim milk. Use a mixer to whip the cream if you prefer.

Instructions

     for the pastry cream

  1.  Heat 2 cups milk and espresso powder in medium saucepan over medium heat until just simmering. Meanwhile, whisk flour, sugar, and salt in medium bowl until combined. Add egg yolks and remaining ½ cup milk to flour mixture and whisk until smooth. Remove saucepan from heat and, whisking constantly, slowly add ½ cup warm milk to yolk mixture to temper. Whisking constantly, add tempered yolk mixture to milk in saucepan.
  2.  Return saucepan to medium heat and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture thickens slightly, about 1 minute. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue to simmer, whisking constantly, for 8 minutes. Increase heat to medium and cook, whisking vigorously, until very thick (mixture dripped from whisk should mound on surface), 1 to 2 minutes. Off heat, whisk in butter and vanilla until butter is melted and incorporated. Transfer to wide bowl. Press lightly greased parchment paper directly on surface and refrigerate until set, at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours.
  3. for the craquelin

  4.   Mix butter and sugar in medium bowl until combined. Mix in flour, cocoa, and salt. Transfer mixture to large sheet of parchment and press into 6-inch square. Cover with second piece of parchment and roll dough into 13 by 9-inch rectangle (it's fine to trim and patch dough to achieve correct dimensions). Remove top piece of parchment and use 2-inch round cutter to cut 24 circles. Leaving circles and trim in place, replace top parchment and transfer to rimless baking sheet. Freeze until firm, at least 30 minutes or up to 2 days.
  5. for the choux

  6.   Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Spray rimmed baking sheet with vegetable oil spray and dust lightly and evenly with flour, discarding any excess. Using 2-inch round cutter, mark 24 circles on sheet. Fit pastry bag with ½-inch round tip. Beat eggs and white together in 2-cup liquid measuring cup.
  7.  Bring water, butter, milk, sugar, and salt to boil in small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Off heat, stir in flour until incorporated. Return saucepan to low heat and cook, stirring constantly and using smearing motion, until mixture looks like shiny, wet sand, about 3 minutes (mixture should register between 175 and 180 degrees).
  8.  Immediately transfer hot mixture to food processor and process for 10 seconds to cool slightly. With processor running, add beaten eggs in steady stream and process until incorporated, about 30 seconds. Scrape down sides of bowl and continue to process until smooth, thick, sticky paste forms, about 30 seconds longer.
  9.  Fill pastry bag with warm mixture and pipe into 1½-inch-wide mounds on prepared sheet, using circles as guide. Using small, thin spatula, transfer 1 frozen craquelin disk to top of each mound. Bake for 15 minutes; then, without opening oven door, reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue to bake until golden brown and firm, 7 to 10 minutes longer.
  10.  Remove sheet from oven and cut ¾-inch slit into side of each pastry with paring knife to release steam. Return pastries to oven, turn off oven, and prop open oven door with handle of wooden spoon. Let pastries dry until center is mostly dry and surface is crisp, about 45 minutes. Transfer pastries to wire rack and let cool completely.
  11. to serve

  12.   Fit pastry bag with ¼-inch round tip. In large bowl, whisk cream to stiff peaks. Whisk pastry cream until smooth. Fold pastry cream into whipped cream until combined. Transfer one-third of mixture to pastry bag. To fill choux buns, insert pastry tip ¾ inch into opening and squeeze gently until cream just starts to appear around opening, about 2 tablespoons cream per bun. Refill bag as needed. Serve. (Choux are best eaten up to 2 hours after filling. Leftovers can be refrigerated for up to 3 days but will soften over time.)
Mocha Choux au Craquelin
Photography by Daniel J. van Ackere. Styling by Ashley Moore.

Mocha Choux au Craquelin

Save

Time

1¾ hours, plus 3 hours chilling and cooling

Yield

Makes 24

Ingredients

Pastry Cream

2 ½ cups whole milk, divided
5 teaspoons instant espresso powder
⅔ cup (3⅓ ounces/94 grams) all-purpose flour
½ cup (3½ ounces/99 grams) granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon table salt
6 large egg yolks
4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Craquelin

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
½ cup packed (3½ ounces/99 grams) light brown sugar
⅔ cup (3⅓ ounces/94 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder
Pinch table salt

Choux

2 large eggs plus 1 large white
6 tablespoons water
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons milk
1 ½ teaspoons granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon table salt
½ cup (2½ ounces/71 grams) all-purpose flour
1 cup heavy cream

Test Kitchen Techniques

Ingredients

Pastry Cream

2 ½ cups whole milk, divided
5 teaspoons instant espresso powder
⅔ cup (3⅓ ounces/94 grams) all-purpose flour
½ cup (3½ ounces/99 grams) granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon table salt
6 large egg yolks
4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Craquelin

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
½ cup packed (3½ ounces/99 grams) light brown sugar
⅔ cup (3⅓ ounces/94 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder
Pinch table salt

Choux

2 large eggs plus 1 large white
6 tablespoons water
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons milk
1 ½ teaspoons granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon table salt
½ cup (2½ ounces/71 grams) all-purpose flour
1 cup heavy cream

Test Kitchen Techniques

Ingredients

Pastry Cream

2 ½ cups whole milk, divided
5 teaspoons instant espresso powder
⅔ cup (3⅓ ounces/94 grams) all-purpose flour
½ cup (3½ ounces/99 grams) granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon table salt
6 large egg yolks
4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Craquelin

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
½ cup packed (3½ ounces/99 grams) light brown sugar
⅔ cup (3⅓ ounces/94 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder
Pinch table salt

Choux

2 large eggs plus 1 large white
6 tablespoons water
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons milk
1 ½ teaspoons granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon table salt
½ cup (2½ ounces/71 grams) all-purpose flour
1 cup heavy cream

Test Kitchen Techniques

Why This Recipe Works

For our choux au craquelin recipe—airy, crispy shells encasing smooth, lush pastry cream—we began by making our pastry cream, which we reinforced with a little extra flour so that it could be lightened with whipped cream later on. While it chilled and set, we mixed the craquelin dough—a simple combination of flour, butter, and sugar—and rolled it into a thin sheet from which we cut 24 disks before freezing the dough. For the shells, incorporating both milk and water ensured that our puffs baked up crisp and browned nicely, and using the food processor made it easy to incorporate eggs into the choux paste. Before sliding the piped mounds of batter into the oven, we topped them with slim disks of the craquelin dough, which transformed into crackly shells as the puffs baked. Slitting the baked puffs released steam before we returned them to the oven for 45 minutes to ensure crispness. Though a brown sugar craquelin paired with a vanilla pastry cream is classic, we liked the idea of pairing a cocoa-flavored craquelin with an espresso filling, too.

Before You Begin

You'll need a 2-inch round cutter, a pastry bag, and two pastry tips—one with a ¼-inch round opening and one with a ½-inch round opening—for this recipe. If desired, this recipe can be made over two days: Make the pastry cream and craquelin on day 1 and the puffs on day 2. We strongly recommend measuring the flour by weight. We prefer whole milk in the pastry cream, but you can use low-fat milk; do not use skim milk. Use a mixer to whip the cream if you prefer.

Instructions

     for the pastry cream

  1.  Heat 2 cups milk and espresso powder in medium saucepan over medium heat until just simmering. Meanwhile, whisk flour, sugar, and salt in medium bowl until combined. Add egg yolks and remaining ½ cup milk to flour mixture and whisk until smooth. Remove saucepan from heat and, whisking constantly, slowly add ½ cup warm milk to yolk mixture to temper. Whisking constantly, add tempered yolk mixture to milk in saucepan.
  2.  Return saucepan to medium heat and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture thickens slightly, about 1 minute. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue to simmer, whisking constantly, for 8 minutes. Increase heat to medium and cook, whisking vigorously, until very thick (mixture dripped from whisk should mound on surface), 1 to 2 minutes. Off heat, whisk in butter and vanilla until butter is melted and incorporated. Transfer to wide bowl. Press lightly greased parchment paper directly on surface and refrigerate until set, at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours.
  3. for the craquelin

  4.   Mix butter and sugar in medium bowl until combined. Mix in flour, cocoa, and salt. Transfer mixture to large sheet of parchment and press into 6-inch square. Cover with second piece of parchment and roll dough into 13 by 9-inch rectangle (it's fine to trim and patch dough to achieve correct dimensions). Remove top piece of parchment and use 2-inch round cutter to cut 24 circles. Leaving circles and trim in place, replace top parchment and transfer to rimless baking sheet. Freeze until firm, at least 30 minutes or up to 2 days.
  5. for the choux

  6.   Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Spray rimmed baking sheet with vegetable oil spray and dust lightly and evenly with flour, discarding any excess. Using 2-inch round cutter, mark 24 circles on sheet. Fit pastry bag with ½-inch round tip. Beat eggs and white together in 2-cup liquid measuring cup.
  7.  Bring water, butter, milk, sugar, and salt to boil in small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Off heat, stir in flour until incorporated. Return saucepan to low heat and cook, stirring constantly and using smearing motion, until mixture looks like shiny, wet sand, about 3 minutes (mixture should register between 175 and 180 degrees).
  8.  Immediately transfer hot mixture to food processor and process for 10 seconds to cool slightly. With processor running, add beaten eggs in steady stream and process until incorporated, about 30 seconds. Scrape down sides of bowl and continue to process until smooth, thick, sticky paste forms, about 30 seconds longer.
  9.  Fill pastry bag with warm mixture and pipe into 1½-inch-wide mounds on prepared sheet, using circles as guide. Using small, thin spatula, transfer 1 frozen craquelin disk to top of each mound. Bake for 15 minutes; then, without opening oven door, reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue to bake until golden brown and firm, 7 to 10 minutes longer.
  10.  Remove sheet from oven and cut ¾-inch slit into side of each pastry with paring knife to release steam. Return pastries to oven, turn off oven, and prop open oven door with handle of wooden spoon. Let pastries dry until center is mostly dry and surface is crisp, about 45 minutes. Transfer pastries to wire rack and let cool completely.
  11. to serve

  12.   Fit pastry bag with ¼-inch round tip. In large bowl, whisk cream to stiff peaks. Whisk pastry cream until smooth. Fold pastry cream into whipped cream until combined. Transfer one-third of mixture to pastry bag. To fill choux buns, insert pastry tip ¾ inch into opening and squeeze gently until cream just starts to appear around opening, about 2 tablespoons cream per bun. Refill bag as needed. Serve. (Choux are best eaten up to 2 hours after filling. Leftovers can be refrigerated for up to 3 days but will soften over time.)

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