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Jamaican Stew Peas with Spinners

By Dionne Reid

Published on November 29, 2021

Time

3 hours, plus 8 hours soaking

Yield

Serves 6 to 8

Jamaican Stew Peas with Spinners

Ingredients

1 pound (about 2 cups) dried small red beans, picked over and rinsed6 cups plus 3 tablespoons water, divided4 sprigs fresh thyme, plus 1 tablespoon chopped1 Scotch bonnet chile, pierced once with tip of paring knife1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon whole allspice berries 1 tablespoon unrefined coconut oil 1 onion, chopped1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped1 large celery rib, chopped (¾ cup)3 tablespoons minced garlic 2 teaspoons garlic powder 1¼ teaspoons table salt, divided½ teaspoon pepper 2 (12-ounce) smoked ham hock 2 cups chicken broth 1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk ½ cup all-purpose flour 6 scallions, chopped

Before You Begin

Small, dark-red dried beans (usually labeled “small red beans”) are similar to the dried red peas used in Jamaica and have a creamy texture when cooked, but you can substitute dried red kidney beans, if desired. If you don't have any coconut oil on hand, you can substitute vegetable oil. If you can't find a Scotch bonnet chile, use a habanero. For the best results, use full-fat coconut milk. Serve with steamed long-grain white rice.

Instructions

  1.  Combine beans and 6 cups water in large container and soak at room temperature for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours.
  2.  Bundle thyme sprigs, Scotch bonnet, bay leaf, and allspice in cheesecloth; secure with kitchen twine; and set aside. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic, garlic powder, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.
  3.  Add beans and their soaking liquid, ham hocks, chicken broth, cheesecloth bundle, and ½ teaspoon salt. Increase heat to high and bring to boil. Lower heat to maintain a vigorous simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until beans start to soften and liquid is slightly reduced, about 1½ hours. Stir in coconut milk and continue to cook until beans are completely soft (it's OK if some skins crack) and sauce thickens, about 30 minutes longer.
  4.  While stew simmers, combine flour and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl. Make well in mixture. Gradually add remaining 3 tablespoons water, stirring until shaggy mass forms. Knead in bowl until dough clears sides of bowl and forms tight ball (if dough seems too dry to shape, add up to 2 teaspoons water, ½ teaspoon at a time). Pinch off about 1 teaspoon dough and roll between your palms to form 3-inch-long dumpling with tapered ends. Transfer to plate and repeat with remaining dough (you should have 14 to 16 dumplings).
  5.  Taste stew; adjust spiciness, if desired, by pressing cheesecloth bundle against side of pot with back of spoon to release juice of Scotch bonnet. Discard bundle and transfer ham hocks to plate to cool slightly. Gently drop dumplings into stew. Simmer, without stirring, until dumplings are set, about 5 minutes. While dumplings cook, debone ham hocks and cut meat into ½-inch pieces (you'll have ½ to ⅔ cup meat); discard bones, skin, and fat. Stir meat, scallions, and chopped thyme into stew. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until flavors have melded and scallions have softened slightly, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve.

Jamaican Stew Peas with Spinners

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Time

3 hours, plus 8 hours soaking

Yield

Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients

1 pound (about 2 cups) dried small red beans, picked over and rinsed
6 cups plus 3 tablespoons water, divided
4 sprigs fresh thyme, plus 1 tablespoon chopped
1 Scotch bonnet chile, pierced once with tip of paring knife
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon whole allspice berries
1 tablespoon unrefined coconut oil
1 onion, chopped
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
1 large celery rib, chopped (¾ cup)
3 tablespoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons garlic powder
1¼ teaspoons table salt, divided
½ teaspoon pepper
2 (12-ounce) smoked ham hock
2 cups chicken broth
1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk
½ cup all-purpose flour
6 scallions, chopped

Test Kitchen Techniques

Ingredients

1 pound (about 2 cups) dried small red beans, picked over and rinsed
6 cups plus 3 tablespoons water, divided
4 sprigs fresh thyme, plus 1 tablespoon chopped
1 Scotch bonnet chile, pierced once with tip of paring knife
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon whole allspice berries
1 tablespoon unrefined coconut oil
1 onion, chopped
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
1 large celery rib, chopped (¾ cup)
3 tablespoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons garlic powder
1¼ teaspoons table salt, divided
½ teaspoon pepper
2 (12-ounce) smoked ham hock
2 cups chicken broth
1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk
½ cup all-purpose flour
6 scallions, chopped

Test Kitchen Techniques

Ingredients

1 pound (about 2 cups) dried small red beans, picked over and rinsed
6 cups plus 3 tablespoons water, divided
4 sprigs fresh thyme, plus 1 tablespoon chopped
1 Scotch bonnet chile, pierced once with tip of paring knife
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon whole allspice berries
1 tablespoon unrefined coconut oil
1 onion, chopped
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
1 large celery rib, chopped (¾ cup)
3 tablespoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons garlic powder
1¼ teaspoons table salt, divided
½ teaspoon pepper
2 (12-ounce) smoked ham hock
2 cups chicken broth
1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk
½ cup all-purpose flour
6 scallions, chopped

Test Kitchen Techniques

Why This Recipe Works

To replicate this homey Jamaican stew using ingredients easily found in American supermarkets, we made some simple substitutions. We started by swapping in dried small red beans for the Jamaican dried red peas, which can be difficult to source in the United States. Instead of salted pig tails or salted beef, we used smoked ham hocks, which, though not traditional, was not a huge leap since some cooks make stew peas using the leftover bone from a Christmas ham. Fine-tuning the spices and aromatics–allspice berries, garlic, garlic powder, celery, thyme, and a Scotch bonnet chile–gave the stew rich, nuanced flavor, and a combination of chicken broth and coconut milk added savoriness and sweet creaminess. To make the dish even more satisfying, we finished by adding the rustic flour-and-water dumplings known as spinners.

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Before You Begin

Small, dark-red dried beans (usually labeled “small red beans”) are similar to the dried red peas used in Jamaica and have a creamy texture when cooked, but you can substitute dried red kidney beans, if desired. If you don't have any coconut oil on hand, you can substitute vegetable oil. If you can't find a Scotch bonnet chile, use a habanero. For the best results, use full-fat coconut milk. Serve with steamed long-grain white rice.

Instructions

  1.  Combine beans and 6 cups water in large container and soak at room temperature for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours.
  2.  Bundle thyme sprigs, Scotch bonnet, bay leaf, and allspice in cheesecloth; secure with kitchen twine; and set aside. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic, garlic powder, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.
  3.  Add beans and their soaking liquid, ham hocks, chicken broth, cheesecloth bundle, and ½ teaspoon salt. Increase heat to high and bring to boil. Lower heat to maintain a vigorous simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until beans start to soften and liquid is slightly reduced, about 1½ hours. Stir in coconut milk and continue to cook until beans are completely soft (it's OK if some skins crack) and sauce thickens, about 30 minutes longer.
  4.  While stew simmers, combine flour and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl. Make well in mixture. Gradually add remaining 3 tablespoons water, stirring until shaggy mass forms. Knead in bowl until dough clears sides of bowl and forms tight ball (if dough seems too dry to shape, add up to 2 teaspoons water, ½ teaspoon at a time). Pinch off about 1 teaspoon dough and roll between your palms to form 3-inch-long dumpling with tapered ends. Transfer to plate and repeat with remaining dough (you should have 14 to 16 dumplings).
  5.  Taste stew; adjust spiciness, if desired, by pressing cheesecloth bundle against side of pot with back of spoon to release juice of Scotch bonnet. Discard bundle and transfer ham hocks to plate to cool slightly. Gently drop dumplings into stew. Simmer, without stirring, until dumplings are set, about 5 minutes. While dumplings cook, debone ham hocks and cut meat into ½-inch pieces (you'll have ½ to ⅔ cup meat); discard bones, skin, and fat. Stir meat, scallions, and chopped thyme into stew. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until flavors have melded and scallions have softened slightly, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve.

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