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Kol Böreği (Spiraled Spinach and Cheese Pastry)

By Erica Turner

Published on April 2, 2024

Time

1½ hours

Yield

Serves 4 to 6

Kol Böreği (Spiraled Spinach and Cheese Pastry)

Ingredients

5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided1 large egg 2 tablespoons milk 1 cup finely chopped onion 10 ounces frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry5 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1 1⁄4 cups)24 (14 by 9-inch) phyllo sheets, thawed1 1⁄2 teaspoons sesame seeds 3⁄4 teaspoon nigella seeds

Before You Begin

Phyllo dough is also available in larger 18 by 14-inch sheets; if using, cut them in half to make 14 by 9-inch sheets. Don't thaw the phyllo in the microwave; let it sit in the refrigerator overnight or on the counter for 4 to 5 hours. If desired, 8 ounces (8 cups) of fresh spinach can be used in place of frozen; chop the spinach and cook until just wilted, 5 to 6 minutes. Kol böreği can be eaten warm or at room temperature. It is typically eaten for breakfast or as an afternoon snack, but we also like it paired with salad for a light lunch. See aside "Filling and Shaping the Kol Böreği" for step-by-step visuals that correspond to lettered steps in the recipe instructions.

Instructions

  1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Whisk ¼ cup oil, egg, and milk together in small bowl and set aside.
  2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in spinach and cook until any excess liquid has evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Stir in feta until just combined (there should be distinct pieces throughout).
  3. Place 1 phyllo sheet on counter (keep remaining sheets covered) with long side parallel to counter edge. Brush oil mixture along 1 short edge of sheet (A). Overlap with second phyllo sheet by 1 inch and press to seal pieces together (B). Drizzle 1½ teaspoons oil mixture over entire surface and gently brush to distribute (there will still be dry spots) (C). Repeat process 2 more times with 4 more phyllo sheets and 1 tablespoon oil mixture (for total of 3 layers).
  4. Spread one-quarter of spinach-feta mixture (about heaping ⅓ cup) along bottom of phyllo, leaving ¾-inch border from bottom edge. Fold bottom edge of phyllo over filling (D). Continue rolling phyllo away from you into firm cylinder, taking care not to roll too tightly (E). Starting at 1 end, coil cylinder into spiral shape (F). Transfer to center of prepared sheet.
  5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 with remaining phyllo sheets, oil mixture, and filling to create 3 more cylinders. After each cylinder is formed, transfer to sheet and continue to create 1 large spiral by meeting end of previous cylinder and then wrapping it around existing spiral (G).
  6. Lightly brush pastry with oil mixture (you might not use all of it), taking care to coat seams where cylinders connect (gently blot any excess that pools between spiral's creases) (H). Sprinkle with sesame seeds and nigella seeds (I). Bake until deeply browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool on baking sheet for 10 minutes. Transfer to cutting board, cut into wedges, and serve.

Kol Böreği (Spiraled Spinach and Cheese Pastry)

Save

Time

1½ hours

Yield

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients

5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
1 large egg
2 tablespoons milk
1 cup finely chopped onion
10 ounces frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
5 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1 1⁄4 cups)
24 (14 by 9-inch) phyllo sheets, thawed
1 1⁄2 teaspoons sesame seeds
3⁄4 teaspoon nigella seeds

Test Kitchen Techniques

Ingredients

5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
1 large egg
2 tablespoons milk
1 cup finely chopped onion
10 ounces frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
5 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1 1⁄4 cups)
24 (14 by 9-inch) phyllo sheets, thawed
1 1⁄2 teaspoons sesame seeds
3⁄4 teaspoon nigella seeds

Test Kitchen Techniques

Ingredients

5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
1 large egg
2 tablespoons milk
1 cup finely chopped onion
10 ounces frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
5 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1 1⁄4 cups)
24 (14 by 9-inch) phyllo sheets, thawed
1 1⁄2 teaspoons sesame seeds
3⁄4 teaspoon nigella seeds

Test Kitchen Techniques

Why This Recipe Works

Börek—a category of pastries shaped from thin dough; filled; and then baked, fried, boiled, or steamed—is an icon of Turkish cuisine. This version, known as kol, or “arm,” böreği, is a snail shell–style spiral of spinach and cheese encased in flaky pastry. In Turkey, börek would typically be made with thin pastry sheets called yufka; we substituted phyllo dough, layering multiple sheets to mimic the thickness of the traditional pastry. We filled the pastry with convenient chopped frozen spinach sautéed with onion and tossed with feta cheese. Brushing the kol böreği inside and out with a traditional mixture (called sos) of oil, egg, and milk ensured that it held its stunning shape and became light, crisp, and golden in the oven.

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Before You Begin

Phyllo dough is also available in larger 18 by 14-inch sheets; if using, cut them in half to make 14 by 9-inch sheets. Don't thaw the phyllo in the microwave; let it sit in the refrigerator overnight or on the counter for 4 to 5 hours. If desired, 8 ounces (8 cups) of fresh spinach can be used in place of frozen; chop the spinach and cook until just wilted, 5 to 6 minutes. Kol böreği can be eaten warm or at room temperature. It is typically eaten for breakfast or as an afternoon snack, but we also like it paired with salad for a light lunch. See aside "Filling and Shaping the Kol Böreği" for step-by-step visuals that correspond to lettered steps in the recipe instructions.

Instructions

  1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Whisk ¼ cup oil, egg, and milk together in small bowl and set aside.
  2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in spinach and cook until any excess liquid has evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Stir in feta until just combined (there should be distinct pieces throughout).
  3. Place 1 phyllo sheet on counter (keep remaining sheets covered) with long side parallel to counter edge. Brush oil mixture along 1 short edge of sheet (A). Overlap with second phyllo sheet by 1 inch and press to seal pieces together (B). Drizzle 1½ teaspoons oil mixture over entire surface and gently brush to distribute (there will still be dry spots) (C). Repeat process 2 more times with 4 more phyllo sheets and 1 tablespoon oil mixture (for total of 3 layers).
  4. Spread one-quarter of spinach-feta mixture (about heaping ⅓ cup) along bottom of phyllo, leaving ¾-inch border from bottom edge. Fold bottom edge of phyllo over filling (D). Continue rolling phyllo away from you into firm cylinder, taking care not to roll too tightly (E). Starting at 1 end, coil cylinder into spiral shape (F). Transfer to center of prepared sheet.
  5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 with remaining phyllo sheets, oil mixture, and filling to create 3 more cylinders. After each cylinder is formed, transfer to sheet and continue to create 1 large spiral by meeting end of previous cylinder and then wrapping it around existing spiral (G).
  6. Lightly brush pastry with oil mixture (you might not use all of it), taking care to coat seams where cylinders connect (gently blot any excess that pools between spiral's creases) (H). Sprinkle with sesame seeds and nigella seeds (I). Bake until deeply browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool on baking sheet for 10 minutes. Transfer to cutting board, cut into wedges, and serve.

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