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Goya Champuru (Okinawan Bitter Melon Stir-Fry)

By Joe Gitter

Published on May 22, 2025

Time

45 minutes, plus 30 minutes salting

Yield

Serves 4

Goya Champuru (Okinawan Bitter Melon Stir-Fry)

Ingredients

1 bitter melon (10 ounces), halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin crosswiseTable salt for salting vegetables14 ounces medium-firm or firm tofu, torn into 1-inch pieces8 ounces skinless pork belly, about 1½ inches thick¼ teaspoon baking soda 5 teaspoons soy sauce, divided4 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided, plus extra as needed1 small onion, halved and sliced thin2 tablespoons sake 2 large eggs, lightly beaten½ cup katsuobushi, divided1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Before You Begin

Boneless country‑style pork ribs can be swapped for pork belly. Look for katsuobushi (bonito flakes) at Asian markets, online, or the international section of your local market.

Instructions

  1. Combine 1 bitter melon, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin crosswise, and 4 cups water in large bowl and let sit, swishing melon occasionally, until water turns cloudy, about 5 minutes. Drain melon, toss with ½ teaspoon table salt in now-empty bowl, and let sit for 30 minutes. Rinse, drain, and pat dry; set aside.
  2. Meanwhile spread 14 ounces tofu, torn into 1-inch pieces, on paper towel–lined rimmed baking sheet and let drain while preparing pork. Cut 8 ounces pork belly into 1-inch-wide strips and place on large plate; freeze until firm, about 20 minutes. Slice strips crosswise ⅛ inch thick. Combine 1 tablespoon water and ¼ teaspoon baking soda in medium bowl. Add pork and toss to coat; let sit for 5 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon soy sauce and toss to coat.
  3. Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add tofu in single layer and cook until golden on two sides, 4 to 6 minutes, flipping tofu halfway through cooking. Transfer tofu to bowl.
  4. Heat remaining 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in now-empty skillet until just smoking. Add pork and cook, tossing slowly but constantly, until lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer pork to bowl with tofu. Pour off all but 2 teaspoons fat from pan. (If necessary, add extra vegetable oil to equal 2 teaspoons.) Add 1 small onion, halved and sliced thin, to fat left in pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes.
  5. Add melon and 2 tablespoons sake and cook, tossing slowly but constantly, until melon just begins to soften, about 1 minute. Gently stir in pork and any accumulated juices, tofu, 2 tablespoons water, and remaining 4 teaspoons soy sauce and cook until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Pour 2 lightly beaten eggs around perimeter of pan and cook until mostly set, about 1 minute.
  6. Gently stir in ¼ cup katsuobushi and 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil and cook until egg is fully set, about 1 minute. Season with salt to taste. Sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup katsuobushi and serve.
Goya Champuru (Okinawan Bitter Melon Stir-Fry)

Goya Champuru (Okinawan Bitter Melon Stir-Fry)

Headshot of Joe Gitter
By Joe Gitter

Published on May 22, 2025

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Time

45 minutes, plus 30 minutes salting

Yield

Serves 4

Ingredients

1 bitter melon (10 ounces), halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin crosswise
Table salt for salting vegetables
14 ounces medium-firm or firm tofu, torn into 1-inch pieces
8 ounces skinless pork belly, about 1½ inches thick
¼ teaspoon baking soda
5 teaspoons soy sauce, divided
4 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided, plus extra as needed
1 small onion, halved and sliced thin
2 tablespoons sake
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup katsuobushi, divided
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Ingredients

1 bitter melon (10 ounces), halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin crosswise
Table salt for salting vegetables
14 ounces medium-firm or firm tofu, torn into 1-inch pieces
8 ounces skinless pork belly, about 1½ inches thick
¼ teaspoon baking soda
5 teaspoons soy sauce, divided
4 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided, plus extra as needed
1 small onion, halved and sliced thin
2 tablespoons sake
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup katsuobushi, divided
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Ingredients

1 bitter melon (10 ounces), halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin crosswise
Table salt for salting vegetables
14 ounces medium-firm or firm tofu, torn into 1-inch pieces
8 ounces skinless pork belly, about 1½ inches thick
¼ teaspoon baking soda
5 teaspoons soy sauce, divided
4 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided, plus extra as needed
1 small onion, halved and sliced thin
2 tablespoons sake
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup katsuobushi, divided
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Why This Recipe Works

When cooked, bitter melon has the texture and crunch of young zucchini. To tame its bitterness, we first soak the melon in water. We toss slices of pork belly with baking soda to help tenderize the meat; we then render some fat from the pork belly, cook onions in it, add the bitter melon and pieces of firm tofu, and lightly stir-fry them. Katsuobushi (bonito flakes) boosts the dish’s umami; toasted sesame oil adds a sweet, nutty element.

Before You Begin

Boneless country‑style pork ribs can be swapped for pork belly. Look for katsuobushi (bonito flakes) at Asian markets, online, or the international section of your local market.

Instructions

  1. Combine 1 bitter melon, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin crosswise, and 4 cups water in large bowl and let sit, swishing melon occasionally, until water turns cloudy, about 5 minutes. Drain melon, toss with ½ teaspoon table salt in now-empty bowl, and let sit for 30 minutes. Rinse, drain, and pat dry; set aside.
  2. Meanwhile spread 14 ounces tofu, torn into 1-inch pieces, on paper towel–lined rimmed baking sheet and let drain while preparing pork. Cut 8 ounces pork belly into 1-inch-wide strips and place on large plate; freeze until firm, about 20 minutes. Slice strips crosswise ⅛ inch thick. Combine 1 tablespoon water and ¼ teaspoon baking soda in medium bowl. Add pork and toss to coat; let sit for 5 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon soy sauce and toss to coat.
  3. Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add tofu in single layer and cook until golden on two sides, 4 to 6 minutes, flipping tofu halfway through cooking. Transfer tofu to bowl.
  4. Heat remaining 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in now-empty skillet until just smoking. Add pork and cook, tossing slowly but constantly, until lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer pork to bowl with tofu. Pour off all but 2 teaspoons fat from pan. (If necessary, add extra vegetable oil to equal 2 teaspoons.) Add 1 small onion, halved and sliced thin, to fat left in pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes.
  5. Add melon and 2 tablespoons sake and cook, tossing slowly but constantly, until melon just begins to soften, about 1 minute. Gently stir in pork and any accumulated juices, tofu, 2 tablespoons water, and remaining 4 teaspoons soy sauce and cook until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Pour 2 lightly beaten eggs around perimeter of pan and cook until mostly set, about 1 minute.
  6. Gently stir in ¼ cup katsuobushi and 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil and cook until egg is fully set, about 1 minute. Season with salt to taste. Sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup katsuobushi and serve.

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