America's Test Kitchen LogoCook's Country LogoCook's Illustrated LogoAmerica's Test Kitchen LogoCook's Country LogoCook's Illustrated Logo

L.A.–Style Chili Cheeseburgers

By Matthew Fairman

Published on June 5, 2025

Time

1 hour

Yield

Serves 4

L.A.–Style Chili Cheeseburgers

Ingredients

Chili

2 teaspoons vegetable oil 8 ounces 80 percent lean ground beef ½ small onion, chopped fine½ teaspoon table salt ¼ cup tomato paste 1 tablespoon chili powder 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour 2 garlic cloves, minced1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon packed brown sugar ½ teaspoon pepper 1 cup water 1 teaspoon dill pickle brine

Cheeseburgers

1 pound 80 percent lean ground beef ¾ teaspoon table salt ½ teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon vegetable oil 8 slices deli American cheese (6 ounces)4 hamburger buns, toasted1 small onion, sliced into thin rounds12 dill pickle chips Yellow mustard

Before You Begin

For the best flavor, buy sliced American cheese from the deli counter, not cellophane-wrapped cheese slices. It is not necessary to take the temperature of these burgers; they will reach a food-safe temperature if cooked according to the recipe instructions.

Instructions

    for the chili

  1. Heat 2 teaspoons vegetable oil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add 8 ounces ground beef, ½ small onion (finely chopped), and ½ teaspoon table salt and cook, breaking up beef with wooden spoon, until fond forms on bottom of saucepan, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup tomato paste, 1 tablespoon chili powder, 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour, 2 minced garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 1 teaspoon packed brown sugar, and ½ teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. 
  2. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add 1 cup water, scraping up any browned bits, and mash beef with potato masher until finely minced, about 1 minute. Bring mixture to simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until spatula dragged across bottom of saucepan leaves trail that fills in very slowly, 10 to 12 minutes. Off heat, stir in 1 teaspoon dill pickle brine. Cover saucepan to keep warm; set aside. (Chili can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 month; reheat before serving.) 
  3. for the cheeseburgers

  4. Working on rimmed baking sheet, divide 1 pound ground beef into 4 equal portions and gently shape into patties about 4½ inches in diameter and about ½ inch thick. Using your thumb or fingers, make 1-inch-wide by ¼-inch-deep divot in center of each patty. Cover patties with plastic wrap and refrigerate while preheating skillet. (Patties can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.)
  5. Heat 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat for 5 minutes. Combine ¾ teaspoon table salt and ½ teaspoon pepper in small bowl. Sprinkle tops of patties with half of salt mixture. Add 1 teaspoon vegetable oil to hot skillet and swirl to coat. Place patties in skillet, seasoned side down, and sprinkle tops with remaining salt mixture. Cook patties without moving for 3 minutes. Flip patties and top each one with 2 slices American cheese. Continue to cook, uncovered, until cheese is just melted, 1 to 2 minutes longer.
  6. Spoon 2 tablespoons chili onto each bun bottom, then top with burgers. Divide remaining chili evenly over burgers (about 2 heaping tablespoons each). Top with onion rounds, pickle chips, yellow mustard to taste, and bun tops. Serve.
L.A.–Style Chili Cheeseburgers
Styling by Elle Simone Scott.

L.A.–Style Chili Cheeseburgers

Headshot of Matthew Fairman
By Matthew Fairman

Published on June 5, 2025

Save

Time

1 hour

Yield

Serves 4

Ingredients

Chili

2 teaspoons vegetable oil
8 ounces 80 percent lean ground beef
½ small onion, chopped fine
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ cup tomato paste
1 tablespoon chili powder
2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon packed brown sugar
½ teaspoon pepper
1 cup water
1 teaspoon dill pickle brine

Cheeseburgers

1 pound 80 percent lean ground beef
¾ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
8 slices deli American cheese (6 ounces)
4 hamburger buns, toasted
1 small onion, sliced into thin rounds
12 dill pickle chips
Yellow mustard

Test Kitchen Techniques

Ingredients

Chili

2 teaspoons vegetable oil
8 ounces 80 percent lean ground beef
½ small onion, chopped fine
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ cup tomato paste
1 tablespoon chili powder
2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon packed brown sugar
½ teaspoon pepper
1 cup water
1 teaspoon dill pickle brine

Cheeseburgers

1 pound 80 percent lean ground beef
¾ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
8 slices deli American cheese (6 ounces)
4 hamburger buns, toasted
1 small onion, sliced into thin rounds
12 dill pickle chips
Yellow mustard

Test Kitchen Techniques

Ingredients

Chili

2 teaspoons vegetable oil
8 ounces 80 percent lean ground beef
½ small onion, chopped fine
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ cup tomato paste
1 tablespoon chili powder
2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon packed brown sugar
½ teaspoon pepper
1 cup water
1 teaspoon dill pickle brine

Cheeseburgers

1 pound 80 percent lean ground beef
¾ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
8 slices deli American cheese (6 ounces)
4 hamburger buns, toasted
1 small onion, sliced into thin rounds
12 dill pickle chips
Yellow mustard

Test Kitchen Techniques

Why This Recipe Works

Chili burgers originated at Ptomaine Tommy’s in Los Angeles in the first half of the 20th century. This simple, ultrasatisfying version pays homage to the many fast food–style chili cheeseburgers that have proliferated there since. We used a potato masher to mince the browned ground beef into the other chili ingredients, which gave our chili the proper saucy consistency. Two teaspoons of flour thickened the chili, ensuring that it wasn’t too saucy to stay put on our burgers. Gently forming our relatively thin patties on a rimmed baking sheet kept the meat from getting tough from overhandling or kneading. We seared the patties in a hot cast-iron skillet for longer on one side, which gave them a deeply browned, seared-on crust while ensuring that they didn’t overcook and dry out. Layering the chili onto our burgers in two places kept the chili from squeezing out with each bite. Finally, to keep the cheese from getting lost among the layers of chili and beef, we used two slices of creamy, melty American cheese per burger.

Before You Begin

For the best flavor, buy sliced American cheese from the deli counter, not cellophane-wrapped cheese slices. It is not necessary to take the temperature of these burgers; they will reach a food-safe temperature if cooked according to the recipe instructions.

Instructions

    for the chili

  1. Heat 2 teaspoons vegetable oil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add 8 ounces ground beef, ½ small onion (finely chopped), and ½ teaspoon table salt and cook, breaking up beef with wooden spoon, until fond forms on bottom of saucepan, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup tomato paste, 1 tablespoon chili powder, 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour, 2 minced garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 1 teaspoon packed brown sugar, and ½ teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. 
  2. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add 1 cup water, scraping up any browned bits, and mash beef with potato masher until finely minced, about 1 minute. Bring mixture to simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until spatula dragged across bottom of saucepan leaves trail that fills in very slowly, 10 to 12 minutes. Off heat, stir in 1 teaspoon dill pickle brine. Cover saucepan to keep warm; set aside. (Chili can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 month; reheat before serving.) 
  3. for the cheeseburgers

  4. Working on rimmed baking sheet, divide 1 pound ground beef into 4 equal portions and gently shape into patties about 4½ inches in diameter and about ½ inch thick. Using your thumb or fingers, make 1-inch-wide by ¼-inch-deep divot in center of each patty. Cover patties with plastic wrap and refrigerate while preheating skillet. (Patties can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.)
  5. Heat 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat for 5 minutes. Combine ¾ teaspoon table salt and ½ teaspoon pepper in small bowl. Sprinkle tops of patties with half of salt mixture. Add 1 teaspoon vegetable oil to hot skillet and swirl to coat. Place patties in skillet, seasoned side down, and sprinkle tops with remaining salt mixture. Cook patties without moving for 3 minutes. Flip patties and top each one with 2 slices American cheese. Continue to cook, uncovered, until cheese is just melted, 1 to 2 minutes longer.
  6. Spoon 2 tablespoons chili onto each bun bottom, then top with burgers. Divide remaining chili evenly over burgers (about 2 heaping tablespoons each). Top with onion rounds, pickle chips, yellow mustard to taste, and bun tops. Serve.

Gift This Recipe

Enjoyed this dish? Let others know by sharing it as a gift recipe.

This is a members' feature.