Eggs are undeniably delicious on their own. Yet in baked goods, we look to them less for flavor and more for their incredible ability to multitask. They emulsify and stabilize batters and doughs, aid in browning, leaven, help produce a tender crumb, and maintain optimal moisture levels. However, many people avoid or limit eggs. Enter commercial egg substitutes. Most of these products attempt to replace eggs in baking recipes. A few say that you can also eat them on their own, scrambled, including Just Egg, a product made by an innovative Silicon Valley plant-based food company.
In order to find the best egg substitute, we purchased several nationally available products and used them in place of eggs in some of our favorite recipes: Chewy Sugar Cookies, Birthday Sheet Cake, and Popovers. We also prepared scrambled “eggs” with the two products engineered for this purpose.
What Are Egg Substitutes Made From?
Most of the egg substitutes we tried are complex combinations of starches, leaveners, and gums. The starches work to bind and keep food moist even after cooling. The leaveners lighten and add fluffiness. The gums stabilize, emulsify, and add moisture.
Two products also contain legume proteins, made from yellow split peas and mung beans, respectively. The other brands have very little, if any, protein. These two products are designed to have protein from a dietary perspective, and protein gives the eggs structure, allowing them to scramble up like regular eggs. They also include ingredients for color and flavor.
How Do Egg Substitutes Work?
Most of the egg substitutes are sold in a powdered format and must be mixed with water before use, each with its own recommended ratio of powder to water. One of the legume protein–based products we tried was a ready-to-use liquid we could dispense straight from the container.
Baking Cookies and Cake with Egg Substitutes
Were the cookies and cake made with egg substitutes identical to batches of cookies and cake made with eggs? No, but a few of them were good enough that our tasters were impressed.
Some cookies were crispy on the edges with a chewy and tender center—our ideal sugar cookie. A few of the batches, however, were tougher and more dry than we’d like. Cookies don’t rise much in the oven, so they don’t need eggs for structure. Instead, eggs’ main role is to bind the ingredients and to supply enough moisture and fat to keep the cookie soft.
As for the cakes, some came out of the oven flat and pale, while others were tall and browned. A few were disappointingly gummy and wet; others were nicely moist and spongy. Cakes get most of their structure from gluten, but they rely on eggs for some of their stature as well as for emulsification, moisture, color, flavor, and a tender crumb.
The differences we noticed in appearance and texture are due to the intricate makeup of the egg substitute and the complex ways in which ingredients interact while baking. For example, one egg substitute made baked goods that browned significantly more than the others, likely because its formulation contained baking soda, which causes faster browning reactions. Two products contained baking soda but also added cream of tartar, which lowers the pH and tempers browning, so the baked goods weren’t as dark as the product with baking soda alone. And one egg substitute uses cream of tartar and no baking soda, making it a little acidic, which slows down browning.
The starches used also greatly impact factors such as gelatinization and how the product reacts to temperature changes. Real eggs might seem simple, but they are incredibly difficult to replicate. Just think of the many forms they can take structurally, from a hollandaise to a soufflé and everything in between. Eggs are basically magic, and the ingredient lists of egg substitutes convey the complex textural engineering used to replicate that magic in these products.
Tasters noted flavor differences too. Most of the cookies and cakes tasted sweet and buttery. However, a few tasters noticed unexpected, slightly off-putting “earthy,” “grassy,” and “vegetal” flavors in the baked goods made with egg substitutes that contained protein. It was easy to figure out why. Since the protein-based egg substitutes were made to be scrambled, manufacturers added savory ingredients such as onion, dried yeast, and turmeric to help mimic egg flavor and color. The manufacturers of both of these products say they can be used in baking, but oniony cake just isn’t for us.
Testing the Limits of Egg Substitutes
Next, we turned to a recipe that would really challenge our egg substitutes—popovers. As popovers bake, the water in the batter becomes steam and expands, stretching the walls and resulting in a balloon-like top. None of the egg substitutes were able to replicate the height or structure of a popover made with eggs. Most were short and unappealingly dense and gummy. However, the popovers made with protein-based egg substitutes had slightly better textures. It’s because the legume proteins behave similarly to egg protein, coagulating and gelling at around the same temperature. Starch-based egg substitutes contain little to no protein, so the walls didn’t rise or thin out quickly enough, resulting in wet popovers. The popovers’ flavor mirrored what we tasted in cookies and cakes—popovers made with starch-based powdered egg substitutes tasted pleasant and sweet. The two protein-based egg substitutes produced popovers that tasted savory, one making more unpleasant popovers than the other. We don’t recommend using any of these products to make popovers.
Can You Really Make Scrambled Eggs with Egg Substitutes?
Since the two protein-based egg substitutes in our lineup can be scrambled, we set ourselves up at the stove with nonstick skillets and spatulas. The first product we tried is a yellow powder made primarily from pea protein. After combining it with water, we cooked the mixture as instructed. The cooked eggs were unappealingly pasty and mushy and tasted supersavory, like a bouillon cube.
The other, from JUST Egg, is an innovative plant-based liquid made from mung beans. We poured the thin yellow liquid into a preheated, lightly oiled nonstick skillet and cooked it as we would fresh eggs, tilting the pan and moving the liquid around with a spatula. Once cooked, the texture was similar to creamy, dense scrambled eggs. The flavor was a bit more vegetal than we expect from scrambled eggs, but overall, better than the bouillon-like powdered scrambled eggs. We’d be happy eating them in the morning with a slice of toast.
Our Favorite Egg Substitute
We have good news if you avoid eggs or cook for someone who does. A majority of the egg substitutes we tested were good at replacing one or two functions or uses of eggs—browning, retaining moisture, rising, scrambling, or flavor, for example. One, however, stood out because it replicated the most functions of an egg during baking, making it the best and most reliable option for baking without eggs. Judee’s Vegan Egg Replacer Mix made cookies with a “pleasant flavor and satisfying chew” and an impressive, evenly browned cake with an ”airy” and “springy” crumb. While it didn’t succeed in baking popovers, we still think it’s worth keeping on hand for less challenging baking recipes such as cookies and cakes.
We recommend JUST Egg Plant Based Liquid Egg as the best replacement for making scrambled eggs and omelets. Its plant-based scrambled eggs closely mimicked the bounce and chew of traditional eggs. We didn’t like it as much in baked goods as several of our starch-based powdered egg substitutes due to some errant vegetal notes we detected in the cake.
- Taste in Chewy Sugar Cookies
- Taste in Birthday Sheet Cake
- Taste in Popovers
- With two products that were manufactured for this use, make scrambled “eggs”
- Samples were randomized and assigned three-digit codes to prevent bias