Why This Recipe Works

Seville orange marmalade is a traditional Scottish spread that's at once sweet, tart, astringent, and spicy. We started by boiling, then simmering, bitter Seville oranges with two lemons for their flavor and higher pectin content. Covering the saucepan with both a lid and a tight layer of aluminum foil minimized evaporation. Following an overnight rest, we mashed the simmered fruit's pulp to expose as much pectin as possible, then boiled the pulp again briefly before straining the liquid from the solids. Adding the peels and the sugar to the liquid off the heat guarded against the sugar recrystallizing once melted. After a final simmer, we tested whether the marmalade had reached its set point by chilling a teaspoonful on a cold plate for a couple of minutes: It was done when it wrinkled when pushed with a finger. We love the intriguing bittersweetness this marmalade brings to Steamed Marmalade Pudding, but we also enjoy it slathered on buttered toast and topped with flaky sea salt.

Before You Begin

Seville oranges are generally available in specialty stores from mid-January until mid-February. You can substitute Cuban sour oranges, which are available for a longer time.

Instructions

Bring water, oranges, and lemons to boil in Dutch oven over high heat. Reduce heat to low and cover pot tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil and then lid. Simmer gently until fruit is easily pierced with skewer, about 1½ hours. Let mixture cool, covered, at room temperature for at least 5 hours or up to 24 hours.

Place 2 small plates in freezer to chill. Transfer fruit to cutting board and cut into quarters. Using spoon, scrape pulp, along with most of pith, from peels and return to pot with liquid; set peels aside. Mash pulp lightly with potato masher, then bring to boil over high heat. Boil for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, slice peels into thin strips, then cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces.

Strain pulp mixture through fine-mesh strainer into large bowl, pressing firmly on solids; discard solids. Return liquid to pot. Add sugar and peels and stir gently until sugar is dissolved, 1 to 2 minutes. Bring to vigorous boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring and adjusting heat as needed, until marmalade is thickened and registers 220 to 222 degrees, 15 to 25 minutes. Off heat, test consistency by placing 1 teaspoon marmalade on chilled plate and freezing for 2 minutes. Gently push cooled marmalade with your finger; marmalade should wrinkle around edges when set. If runny, simmer 1 to 3 minutes longer before retesting on second plate. Skim any foam from surface of marmalade.

Using wide-mouth funnel and ladle, portion hot marmalade into four 1-pint jars. Let cool completely, cover, and refrigerate until set, 12 to 24 hours. Marmalade can be refrigerated for up to 3 months.