What Does the Word “Heirloom” Really Mean?

You may also notice the word in reference to produce or even grains or beans at specialty stores or farmer’s market stands. Without knowing the true meaning of the term, it’s easy to believe that heirloom is just a synonym for “expensive” or “fancy.” However, it goes far beyond price.

To better understand heirlooms, we talked with Mike Bollinger, executive director of Seed Savers Exchange, a nonprofit organization focusing on stewardship and education around heirlooms. 

Akin to a family’s prized possessions, heirloom produce (like those wonky-looking tomatoes at the farm stand) originates from seeds meticulously preserved and handed down through generations.

According to Bollinger, most of the produce varieties available in grocery stores are hybrids—the descendants of two different varieties that were pollinated together. Growers do this to create desired traits such as disease resistance, large yields, and longer shelf lives. 

However, anytime a hybrid reproduces, the characteristics can change and the offspring it produces won’t necessarily inherit those same desirable attributes. If a hybrid tomato is juicy and plump, it can still pass down genes that make its descendants small and lackluster. This is why hybrid seeds are not saved. But for large-scale growers, it’s still more cost-effective to create new hybrid seeds with desirable traits each growing season than it is to cultivate and pass down heirloom seeds.

Heirlooms, on the other hand, are open-pollinated, meaning plants of the same variety are pollinated by the natural environment—be it insects, birds, or weather. With each harvest, the heirloom reproduces a plant with qualities essentially identical to its predecessor. Heirlooms are more expensive because they require more care and labor to grow them. Unlike hybrids, they tend to be less disease-resistant and yield less. 

While both hybrid and heirloom plants can yield delicious fruits and vegetables, heirlooms are renowned for their distinctive flavor profiles. The hybrids in the supermarket prioritize quantity and profit, not necessarily flavor. In contrast, heirlooms, grown on a smaller scale, maintain a commitment to their uniqueness.

Consider this: Cucumber varieties typically available in stores generally look and taste like our idea of a “classic" cucumber, but an heirloom cucumber variety might be small and round and possess a sweet, bright flavor reminiscent of a lemon.

At the Seed Savers farm in Iowa, Bollinger says they cultivate several varieties of heirloom apples, including one that tastes like “banana Laffy Taffy.”

No, not all heirlooms are organic. The term “heirloom” refers to the stewardship process of the seeds; farmers can still use pesticides to protect their produce.  

Heirlooms tell stories from the past that may have been lost if not for their existence—like Angola Prison Okra, says Bollinger. This variety was bred to grow shorter than ordinary okra so corrections officers could monitor inmates while they were working in the fields.

Along with historical and cultural significance, heirlooms also play a role in biodiversity—the interaction of various species of plants and animals. Having multiple varieties of crops instead of just a few hybrids gives more stability to our food system. 

Heirlooms offer more than just a unique taste—they unfold stories and open doors to a world of flavors and textures. If you have the time and resources, consider trying heirloom fruits or vegetables, and perhaps embark on the rewarding journey of growing them yourself.