Wok hei, a distinctive flavor profile created by cooking over very high heat, is not so elusive. You can achieve it in your own kitchen.
Food cooked in a well-seasoned wok can acquire wok hei, a Cantonese term for the charred and fragrant essence prized in some (not all) Chinese regional cuisines as the ultimate reward of a great stir-fry. Wok hei is colloquially translated as “the breath of the wok,” and its flavor and aroma have been described as “smoky,” “allium-like,” “grilled,” and “metallic.” Think of burgers cooked over a charcoal grill—wok hei is the Chinese cooking analog of that exquisitely singed flavor.
Wok experts attribute the unique flavor of wok hei to a few complementary factors, including aroma compounds that form when oil gets very hot, chemical interactions between food and a wok’s seasoned steel, and the accelerated Maillard and caramelization reactions that happen when the heat is turned way up.
This electric flavor is most associated with dishes fresh from the flame-licked, blazing heat of restaurant woks. In professional kitchens oil sometimes even catches fire briefly when food is tossed into the air from the wok. But wok hei can be achieved at home—no pyrotechnics necessary, though you need proper technique and the right equipment. Make sure that your wok or carbon-steel skillet is very hot. In a properly heated wok, modest amounts of food kept in motion pass through clouds of steam and smoke that rise from the sizzling hot carbon steel, taking on the fleeting taste of wok hei, a savory complex taste that no skillet can match.
NOTE: Because nonstick pans shouldn't be heated to very high temperatures, they are not the best tools for achieving wok hei safely. For more information about using nonstick skillets, read this article.