Name: Crispy Pan-Seared Black Sea Bass
Total time: PLACEHOLDER
Ingredients: ¾ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon table salt , divided; ¾ teaspoon sugar; 4 (6- to 8-ounce) skin-on black sea bass fillets, 1 inch thick; 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Why This Recipe Works

For restaurant-quality fish, we salt the fillets before we cook them. Why? First, the salt seasons the flesh deeply by diffusion. Second, salt actually dissolves some of the proteins in the fish and forms a gel that can hold on to more moisture so the portions near the outside don't overcook in the pan. The second secret is going low and slow: Start the fish in a hot pan, then drop the flame to maintain an even, steady sear. Cooking the fish most of the way on the skin side—an old-school, fancy French technique dubbed “unilateral” cooking—ensures that the skin gets incredibly crispy while the flesh stays moist.

Before You Begin

Arctic char, bluefish, farmed or wild salmon, or red snapper may be substituted for the bass in this recipe. This recipe works well with fish fillets, 1-inch thick, that have skin that is pleasant to eat. Do not use fillets thicker than 1 inch for this recipe as they are difficult to cook through without scorching the skin or overcooking the bottom layer of flesh. If using arctic char or wild salmon, cook the fillets to 120 degrees (for medium-rare). If using farmed salmon, cook the fillets to 125 degrees (for medium-rare). If using bluefish, cook the fillets to 130 degrees (for medium-rare). The bass is pictured with Green Olive, Almond, and Orange Relish and Oregano–Black Olive Relish.

Instructions

Combine ¾ teaspoon salt and sugar in bowl. Using sharp knife, make 3 or 4 shallow slashes, about ½ inch apart, in skin side of each fillet, being careful not to cut into flesh and leaving ½ inch of skin at the edges intact. Sprinkle flesh side of fillets evenly with salt mixture and place, skin side up, on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle skin side with remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt. Refrigerate for at least 45 minutes or up to 1½ hours.

Pat fillets dry with paper towels. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Place fillets, skin side down, in skillet. Immediately reduce heat to medium-low and, using fish spatula, firmly press fillets for 20 to 30 seconds to ensure even contact between skin and skillet. Continue to cook until skin is well browned and flesh is opaque except for top ¼ inch, 6 to 12 minutes. (If at any time during searing, oil starts to smoke, or sides of fish start to brown, reduce heat so that oil is sizzling but not smoking.)

Off heat, flip fillets with 2 spatulas and continue to cook using residual heat of skillet until bass registers 135 degrees, 30 seconds to 1 minute longer. Transfer bass, skin side up, to platter and serve.